“Frustrated by the dearth of authentic New York–style pizza in the desert, I long ago settled on the Neapolitan variety — the personal-size woodfired pizza that originated in Naples, Italy. I’ve tasted them everywhere I could find them in the Coachella Valley, noting the restaurants that nail the crisp but chewy and airy thin crust and simple ingredients: a basic dough, raw tomatoes, fresh mozzarella cheese, basil, and olive oil — aka, pizza Margherita…”
